{"id":845,"date":"2013-07-07T14:17:50","date_gmt":"2013-07-07T12:17:50","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/schranzbuaba.at\/?p=845"},"modified":"2018-04-16T11:18:17","modified_gmt":"2018-04-16T09:18:17","slug":"matterhorn-noordwand-schmidt-fuehre","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/schranzbuaba.at\/?p=845","title":{"rendered":"Matterhorn Nordwand &#8222;Schmidt- F\u00fchre&#8220;"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><iframe style=\"border: none; overflow: hidden;\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/plugins\/like.php?href=http%3A%2F%2Fschranzbuaba.at%2Findex.php%2F2016%2F11%2F16%2Fmatterhorn-noordwand-schmidt-fuehre%2F&amp;width=450&amp;layout=standard&amp;action=like&amp;size=large&amp;show_faces=true&amp;share=true&amp;height=80&amp;appId\" width=\"450\" height=\"80\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\"><\/iframe><br \/>\nSchon seit einigen Jahren hielten wir Ausschau nach brauchbaren Verh\u00e4ltnissen am Matterhorn. Immer wieder mussten wir jedoch unsere Pl\u00e4ne auf Eis legen.<\/p>\n<p>Ende Juni 2013. Wir h\u00f6rten von einer erfolgreichen Solo Begehung von Markus Pucher.<\/p>\n<p>Am zweiten Wochenende im Juli hatten wir endlich Zeit- und Wettergl\u00fcck. Am Samstag morgens fuhren Egon, Hannes und ich\u00a0auf Zermatt und stiegen zur H\u00f6rnlih\u00fctte auf.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_924\" style=\"width: 1030px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-924\" data-attachment-id=\"924\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/schranzbuaba.at\/?attachment_id=924\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/IMG_6877.jpg?fit=1024%2C1365&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"1024,1365\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;8&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;Canon PowerShot A3000 IS&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;1373125906&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;6.2&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;100&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0.002&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"IMG_6877\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/IMG_6877.jpg?fit=1020%2C1360&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"wp-image-924 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/IMG_6877.jpg?resize=1020%2C1360\" alt=\"IMG_6877\" width=\"1020\" height=\"1360\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/IMG_6877.jpg?resize=1020%2C1360&amp;ssl=1 1020w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/IMG_6877.jpg?resize=632%2C842&amp;ssl=1 632w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/IMG_6877.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/IMG_6877.jpg?w=1024&amp;ssl=1 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1020px) 100vw, 1020px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-924\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">auf dem vom Schwarzsee zur H\u00f6rnlih\u00fctte<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Als wir durch Zermatt spazierten trafen\u00a0wir auf Roli, welcher gerade von seiner Solo- Begehung der Nordwand zur\u00fcckkehrte. Dies machte uns Hoffnung, doch noch brauchbare Verh\u00e4ltnisse vorzufinden.<\/p>\n<p>Nach einer kurzen Nacht stand\u00a0ich mit geschwollenen, blutunterlaufenen Augen auf.\u00a0Ungl\u00fccklicherweise war ich abends der Meinung, ich k\u00f6nnte meine Kontaktlinsen \u00fcber Nacht tragen, um mir das morgendliche herumgefummel in den Augen zu ersparen. Eindeutig eine Fehlentscheidung.<\/p>\n<p>Zum Fr\u00fchst\u00fcck\u00a0tranken wir einen Becher bitteren Tee und machten uns auf den Weg.<\/p>\n<p>In der Wand finden wir super\u00a0Bedingungen vor. Zwar ist die Masse des Eises bereits entschwunden, was das Absichern sicher erschwert h\u00e4tte, jedoch kletterten wir seilfrei und genossen\u00a0das spielerische Gel\u00e4nde. Unser Kletterfluss wurde jedoch unterbrochen als wir bemerkten, dass das Gel\u00e4nde untypisch schwer wurde. Wir hatten uns alle drei Verstiegen. Um zur Originallinie zur\u00fcckzukehren, seilten wir etwa 20m ab. Nach diesem kurzen &#8222;Abstecher&#8220; packten wir unser Seil wieder in den Rucksack und kletterten weiter.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_926\" style=\"width: 1030px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-926\" data-attachment-id=\"926\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/schranzbuaba.at\/?attachment_id=926\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/IMG_6912.jpg?fit=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"1024,768\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;4&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;Canon PowerShot A3000 IS&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;1373177180&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;13.79&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;100&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0.003125&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"IMG_6912\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;Thin but good- die Verh\u00e4ltnisse in der Nordwand&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/IMG_6912.jpg?fit=1020%2C765&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"size-large wp-image-926\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/IMG_6912.jpg?resize=1020%2C765\" alt=\"Thin but good- die Verh\u00e4ltnisse in der Nordwand\" width=\"1020\" height=\"765\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/IMG_6912.jpg?resize=1020%2C765&amp;ssl=1 1020w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/IMG_6912.jpg?resize=632%2C474&amp;ssl=1 632w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/IMG_6912.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/IMG_6912.jpg?w=1024&amp;ssl=1 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1020px) 100vw, 1020px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-926\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Thin but good- die Verh\u00e4ltnisse in der Nordwand<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Nat\u00fcrlich war keiner von uns akklimatisiert, was uns\u00a0die\u00a0letzten 300 H\u00f6henmeter zum Gipfel besonders auskosten lie\u00df. Hannes reiste sogar am Vortag von Wien an.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_927\" style=\"width: 1030px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-927\" data-attachment-id=\"927\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/schranzbuaba.at\/?attachment_id=927\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/IMG_6925.jpg?fit=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"1024,768\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;8&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;Canon PowerShot A3000 IS&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;1373185419&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;6.2&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;100&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0.0015625&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"IMG_6925\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;im oberen Abschnitt&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/IMG_6925.jpg?fit=1020%2C765&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"size-large wp-image-927\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/IMG_6925.jpg?resize=1020%2C765\" alt=\"im oberen Abschnitt\" width=\"1020\" height=\"765\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/IMG_6925.jpg?resize=1020%2C765&amp;ssl=1 1020w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/IMG_6925.jpg?resize=632%2C474&amp;ssl=1 632w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/IMG_6925.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/IMG_6925.jpg?w=1024&amp;ssl=1 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1020px) 100vw, 1020px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-927\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">im oberen Abschnitt<\/p><\/div>\n<div id=\"attachment_928\" style=\"width: 1030px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-928\" data-attachment-id=\"928\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/schranzbuaba.at\/?attachment_id=928\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/Matterhorn.jpg?fit=1024%2C525&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"1024,525\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;8&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;Canon PowerShot A3000 IS&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;1373188755&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;6.2&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;100&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0.001&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"Matterhorn\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;Matterhorn 4478m&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/Matterhorn.jpg?fit=1020%2C523&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"size-large wp-image-928\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/Matterhorn.jpg?resize=1020%2C523\" alt=\"am Gipfel\" width=\"1020\" height=\"523\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/Matterhorn.jpg?resize=1020%2C523&amp;ssl=1 1020w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/Matterhorn.jpg?resize=632%2C324&amp;ssl=1 632w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/Matterhorn.jpg?resize=768%2C394&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/Matterhorn.jpg?w=1024&amp;ssl=1 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1020px) 100vw, 1020px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-928\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">am Gipfel<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Wie langsam wir tats\u00e4chlich geworden waren, bemerkten wir im Abstieg, da uns\u00a0im unteren Abschnitt des H\u00f6rnligrates jene franz\u00f6sische Seilschaft einholte, welche wir am Anfang der Schwierigkeiten in der Wand \u00fcberholt, und ziemlich weit abgeh\u00e4ngt hatten.<\/p>\n<p>Als wir am Fu\u00df des Berges ankamen, fotografierte uns noch ein \u00fcberw\u00e4ltigter Japaner.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_932\" style=\"width: 1030px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-932\" data-attachment-id=\"932\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/schranzbuaba.at\/?attachment_id=932\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/P7070144.jpg?fit=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"1024,768\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;6.6&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;u1040,S1040&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;1373202308&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;6.7&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;50&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0.003125&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;zur\u00fcck auf der H\u00f6rnli H\u00fctte&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/P7070144.jpg?fit=1020%2C765&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"size-large wp-image-932\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/P7070144.jpg?resize=1020%2C765\" alt=\"zur\u00fcck auf der H\u00f6rnli H\u00fctte\" width=\"1020\" height=\"765\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/P7070144.jpg?resize=1020%2C765&amp;ssl=1 1020w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/P7070144.jpg?resize=632%2C474&amp;ssl=1 632w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/P7070144.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/P7070144.jpg?w=1024&amp;ssl=1 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1020px) 100vw, 1020px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-932\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">zur\u00fcck auf der H\u00f6rnli H\u00fctte- PROST<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Sonntag am Abend waren wir wieder Zuhause, bereit f\u00fcr die kommende Arbeitswoche.<br \/>\n<iframe style=\"border: none; overflow: hidden;\" src=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/plugins\/like.php?href=http%3A%2F%2Fschranzbuaba.at%2Findex.php%2F2016%2F11%2F16%2Fmatterhorn-noordwand-schmidt-fuehre%2F&amp;width=450&amp;layout=standard&amp;action=like&amp;size=large&amp;show_faces=true&amp;share=true&amp;height=80&amp;appId\" width=\"450\" height=\"80\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Schon seit einigen Jahren hielten wir Ausschau nach brauchbaren Verh\u00e4ltnissen am Matterhorn. Immer wieder mussten wir jedoch unsere Pl\u00e4ne auf Eis legen. Ende Juni 2013. Wir h\u00f6rten von einer erfolgreichen Solo Begehung von Markus Pucher. Am zweiten Wochenende im Juli hatten wir endlich Zeit- und Wettergl\u00fcck. Am Samstag morgens fuhren Egon, Hannes und ich\u00a0auf Zermatt [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":933,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":true,"template":"","format":"galerie","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[9],"tags":[20,23,46,26,22,66],"class_list":["post-845","post","type-post","status-publish","format-galerie","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-blog","tag-alpine-ice","tag-christoph","tag-classic","tag-eis-mixed","tag-nordwand","tag-christoph-schranz","post_format-galerie","fallback-thumbnail"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/schranzbuaba.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/P7070145.jpg?fit=1024%2C1365&ssl=1","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p7jp0k-dD","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/schranzbuaba.at\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/845","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/schranzbuaba.at\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/schranzbuaba.at\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/schranzbuaba.at\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/schranzbuaba.at\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=845"}],"version-history":[{"count":11,"href":"https:\/\/schranzbuaba.at\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/845\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1560,"href":"https:\/\/schranzbuaba.at\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/845\/revisions\/1560"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/schranzbuaba.at\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/933"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/schranzbuaba.at\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=845"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/schranzbuaba.at\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=845"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/schranzbuaba.at\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=845"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}